Kushti at Tulsi Ghat Akhara of Varanasi

Akharas have always been an integral part of Varanasi's culture and wrestlers who come out of the these have won enough tournaments outside the city as well. Tulsi Akhara of Varanasi, in particular, is the most famous one and has produced many famous pehalwans (wrestlers) in the past and hence is also the most famous one.

Not just Akhara, kushti is extremely popular in many other North Indian cities like Mathura, and Agra, among others.

A wrestler getting ready...

A wrestling match in progress...

I stumbled on this akhara while taking a walk early in the morning when I was sitting on the ghat and just chilling out alone. I saw an old man doing yoga on the steps and on following him for some cool shots, eventually reached the akhara itself.

Over the next hour or so I witnessed their morning rituals, which included some heavy-dose workout and a few bouts of wrestling. Interestingly I wasn't alone and there were a few foreigners as well who joined me. The head of the akhara was very particular about only letting the men take pictures and come close to the pehalwans, as they usually practice celibacy (it's quite rare though and the wrestlers also confirmed to me that they were quite active..ahem ahem...in bed!).



The day usually starts with wrestlers stripping down and putting on a special garment, called langot, which is a sort of underwear to keep your manhood safe, as wrestler put it to me with a smile. Wearing a langot is quite a challenge, though pehalwans do it with ease. One of the American guy wanted to try it out himself, but decided to skip it when he realised the risk of exposure was way too high and there were so many people ready with their cameras...hahaha!

Once the langot is worn, the pehalwan oils his body with mustard oil. Oil is essential as it helps you to slip out of the grip of the opponent and is also believed to have healing properties. Usually wrestlers help each other for this.

Oiling before the start

Next is exercising which actually takes up most of the morning as building stamina is considered essential for this sport. Both strength and agility are focus here. Our American friend who shied away from wearing the langot, did join the wrestlers for this session.

Working out!

And finally, the wrestlers get down to practice with each other guided by a coach. Usually each pair plays one complete game (i.e. till the time one of them is defeated) and by the time it ends, they are too exhausted to play another game.

They practice moves, exercise some more, take a bath, change and go back home, college or to their offices. Most wrestlers are quite young and have school or college right after they finish practice.

Coach giving lessons

Match in progress...

There is quite a bit of throwing around...

And finally one of them loses!

How to reach the Akhara?

The best way to reach the Akhara would be to take any local transport and reach Assi ghat. Get off at the Assi ghat and walk towards Tulsi ghat - will be on your left if you are facing the river. A short five minutes ride later you will reach Tulsi ghat. Take the steep steps which go up, and the akhara is right there on the right after the last step across the narrow lane.

It's really easy to find, but ask for directions if you don't find it yourself.

Timings:

Unlike other akharas, this one starts a little late in the morning:

Morning: 8am to 10am
Evening: 4-5pm to 7pm

The timings are always approximate and change as per the season.

To buy a langot

Finally, if you planning to buy a langot for yourself, you can do so now on Amazon.

Kushti video

Here's a video from a hot afternoon in Delhi akhara.