Holi festival 2023 India - Essential Guide on how to plan and celebrate Holi in Mathura and Vrindavan!

Planning to celebrate the Holi festival in India at Mathura and Vrindavan in 2022, and looking for resources on how to go about it? This is exactly what happened to me also some years back when I wanted to plan a trip and really struggled to find a detailed online itinerary that I could follow. Hence I decided to write this post so that it can be helpful to anyone planning a trip there. This post should work both for Indian as well as international tourists, however, you are still in doubt after the post, feel free to post a question in the comments below or write me a direct email - I shall do my best to help you out :)

Holi at Barsana. Pic credit: Achal Mishra

Now coming back to the festival itself, Holi is one of the biggest Indian festivals and is also one of the most fun ones. Of course there are prayers to the Gods, but the festivities then continue on the streets as colourful street festival. Though there is one main Holi day, the festivities actually starts in mid-January at the time of Makar Sankranti and continue beyond the Holi day itself. If you are coming all the way to India to celebrate and capture Holi, it's highly recommended that you come early as well as stay back a little longer to capture some big events before and after the main Holi day.

I am including the biggest events which make up this festival, though there are a few more Holi celebrations which are not included in the list. 

Event 1: Lathmar Holi at Barsana and Nandgaon

28th Feb (Barsana) & 1st March (Nandgaon) 2023

The first in this is a rather peculiar style of Holi celebrations where women chase men and beat them up with Lathis (sticks), and it’s called Lathmar Holi. There are two towns which celebrate this festival with zest and these are Barsana and Nandgaon.

A scene from the Lather Holi festival. Pic credit: Achal Mishra

This is how the story behind the festival goes. Lord Krishna visited Barsana to meet Radha for Holi and teased her and her friends a lot. The ladies got a little offended and decided to teach Krishna a lesson and chased him away by beating him with sticks. So now men from Krishna’s village Nandgaon visit Barsana on this day and get beaten up and chased by the women here. 

Its a huge event and attracts thousands of participants as well as tourists who come to enjoy the fun filled beatings.

Read more: Lathmar Holi at Barsana and Nandgaon.

When to go?

The event takes place about seven days before the actual Holi. Confirm the dates before planning a trip, it’s a different date every year like most Hindu festivals. 

Where?

Barsana and Nandgaon

How to go?

If you are in Delhi, you can simply hire a cab, go to the event and come back home in the evening. Brasana is about 115 kilometres from Delhi. Similarly, if you are in Mathura you can hire a cab and go there. The distance is between Mathura and Barsana is about 50 km. Reach as early as possible in the morning as the temple gets very crowded and it might get difficult to climb to the top balcony which is the only place from where photography is possible here.

Dates:

2016 - 17th March (Barsana) and 18th March (Nandgaon)

2017 - 5th March to 8th March
2018 - 24th-25th February

2023 - 28th Feb -1st March

Event 2: Phoolon wali Holi, Vrindavan

3rd March 2023 

On the Ekadashi before Holi, the Banke Bihari temple at Vridnavan celebtrates a unique Holi which is not celebrated with conventional dry or wet colors, but with flowers, and hence the name Phoolon wali holi (Flowers' Holi). The event is not as popular as the other events, but is quickly getting it's due.

Phoolon wali Holi (Pic: Divyakashi)

The gates of the temple open around 4pm and the Flower's Holi starts right after that. However, unlike other Holi festivities this is a short affair of just about 15-20 minutes during which flowers are thrown at the devotees by the temple priests. If you are not on time, it's very easy to miss it. In case you planning to capture it with your camera, reach early and be at the gate just when it opens.

When to go?

Ekadashi before Holi. in 2017 it's on 8th March.

Where?

Banke Bihari temple, Vrindavan

Dates:

2016 - 19th March

2017 - 8th March

2018 - 26th February

2023 - 3rd March

p.s. Thanks to my friend Divyakshi for the update :)

Event 3: Widow's Holi, Vrindavan

16th March 2022 (tentative)

Widows in India have always led a difficult life. They were often banished form their homes and were forced to live in ashrams in Varanasi and Vrindavan. They wore white clothes and never played with colours. A few years back the widows of Pagal Baba Widow Ashram, Vrindavan decided to break this convention and play with colors.

Women playing Holi (ref: The Hindu)

Though it started only two years back, it's already a must-do event during Holi celebrations. If you reach early and have time, do make a visit and meet them. I am not sure, but if possible, do play with them as well...always good to spread love on festivals :)

For more details you can contact Madanji at Sulabh NGO: +91 9891600081. 

When to go?

The event takes place a few days before Holi.

Where?

Gopinath Temple, Vrindavan around noon.

Dates:
2016 - 21st March
2017 - 10th March
2018 - 27th February
2022 - 16th March (tentative)

Event 4: Holi at Banke Bihari Temple, Vrindavan

6th March 2023

Banke Bihari is the hub of Holi festivities in Vridavan - believed to be the birthplace of Lord Krishna. The event here takes place just a day before the main Holi festival. The temple opens up its doors to all visitors to come and play Holi with the lord himself. The priest throw colors and holy water and the crowd chants in unison. Its an unbelievable experience to be a part of this event. 

Holi at Banke Bihari Temple, Vrindavan

Unlike Lathmar Holi, this event has mainly males participating. There are some women, but the crowd does get rowdy and I guess that’s the reason most local women avoid it. There is festival inside as well as outside the temple premises and its impossible to escape the colors :)

The doors of the temple open at 9am and shut by 1.30pm.

Read more: Holi at Banke Bihari Temple, Vrindavan

When to go?

A day before Holi; 9am to 1.30pm

Where?

Vridnavan

How to go?

Vridnavan is about 160km from Delh, so it is possible to travel in the morning and go back in the evening. However, my recommendation is to take a hotel room and Mathura and stay overnight. The main Holi festival in Mathura happens next day and is not an event to be missed.

Dates:
2016 - 23rd March
2017 - 12th March
2018 - 1st March
2023 - 6th March

Event 5: Holi procession in Mathura

6th March 2023

After the Holi festivities in Vrindavan get over around 2pm, head out to Mathura to participate in the colourful Holi procession. The procession starts at Vishram Ghat and get over a little after the Holi Gate. Its best to catch it in the street connecting the two landmarks.

Kids throwing colors from the vehicle

About ten vehicles decorated with flowers, and some even with kids dressed up as Radha-Krishna, participate in it. 3pm is a good time to go there and be a part of it. Everyone plays Holi with everyone else and its futile to resist. Get drenched a few times and get completely coloured and chances are that you will be left to enjoy (or take photographs) by yourself after that.

Evening Holika Dahan: The evening after the street procession is the time for Holika dehan - or burning of the effigy of Holika. The biggest such effigy is burnt at the Holi Gate and there are many cultural programs as well. I would suggest you skip this one and go inside the lanes towards ghats. Each small cross-road will have a small intimate function where women come and pray. The prayers are quick and if you are not around you can easily miss it as well.

Read more: Holi procession at Mathura.

When to go?

A day before Holi; 2pm to 6pm

Where?

Mathura

How to go?

If you are in Vrindavan, you can take an auto-rickshaw from the town. It makes little sense to come from Delhi or any other town just to attend this event.

Dates:
2016 - 23rd March
2017 - 12th March
2018 - 1st March
2023 - 6th March

Event 6: Holi festivities in Mathura

7th March 2023

On the big Holi day, the biggest festival takes place at the historical Dwarkadheesh Temple in Mathura. However, I would recommend starting the day much earlier at 7am. Head out to Vishram ghat and catch the process of making Bhang by the priests. If possible, maybe take a glass yourself as well (not more).

The priest getting ready to spray colors!

The gates of the temple open at 10am and there is already a big crowd outside the gates by then playing Holi and colouring anyone who dares cross the road. Most of it is fun, but things can very quickly get ugly. Mostly local men and kids participate, and women are again conspicuous by their absence. However, there are many traveler women who do participate. 

The atmosphere inside the temple is really nice actually Unlike Banke Bihari in Vridnavan, the scale of Holi is smaller and the place is much friendlier. Priest play Dhols and you can even join the dancing there. Inside the temple, more women play Holi.

Food tip: On the day of Holi it's practically impossible to find any food after the festival get s over, and that's the time when you are also most hungry. My suggestion would be to buy some food in advance and keep safely with you in the bag or back in the hotel room. In case you forget to buy food, there is one dhaba open opposite Holi gate which does serve some very oily food. There could be some street vendors who sell stale chole-kulche, and maybe a fruit-seller if you are lucky. Brijwasi sweets at Holi gate opens around 4pm and you can get something hygienic to eat there.

Read more: Holi at Dwarkadheesh Temple, Mathura.

When?

Holi day; 10am to 1.30pm

Where?

Dwarkadheesh Temple, Mathura

How to go?

If you are in Mathura, just walk from you hotel. You can also come from Delhi in a cab and leave the same afternoon.

Dates:
2016 - 23rd March
2017 - 13th March
2018 - 2nd March
2023 - 7th March

Event 7: Huranga at Dauji Temple

8th March 2023

On the day after Holi, Dauji Temple, located about 30 km outside Mathura, comes alive with men getting not just beaten up but also stripped by the women :)

Huranga at Dauji Temple in full swing!

The tradition dates back to more than 500 years, when the Krishna temple was established. Women from the family which established the temple, strip the men and beat them up with their own clothes, in the temple courtyard. Its a huge family with about 3000 members now, and they all come to the village from across the world for the festival. 

This was to me the most fun-filed Holi. People just let go of all their inhibitions and play with colors. After the ceremony gets over, there is more Holi played in the courtyard of the temple and everyone is welcome to join in. 

Read more: Huranga at Dauji temple near Mathura.

When?

Day after Holi; 12.30pm to 4.00 pm. However, this is a popular event and if you want to take good pictures reach by 9am and block your seat on the roof to get a good view.

Where?

Daoji Temple, Baldeo, 30 km from Mathura

How to go?

If you are in Mathura, take a cab or an auto-rickshaw to the village. You can also come from Delhi in a cab and leave the same afternoon.

Dates:

2016 - 25th March

2017 - 14th March

2018 - 3rd March
2023 - 8th March

More Practical Information

What to eat?

I think the entire North India has great food, especially when it comes to street food and sweets, and Mathura certainly does not disappoint. I loved eating the food there every single day, infant though I was there to capture Holi, food also became a highlight of the trip.

So go crazy on things like pain poori, aalo tikki, kachori, jelabis, imartis, lal pedas, gulab jamuns, lassi and more! If you think your stomach won't be able to handle the Indian food, you can have it all from Brijwasi which is right next to the Holi gate. Otherwise, the most popular chaat place is called 'Shreeji Chat'. 

For meals, do try out the Girdhar Murari Dharmashala. The place serves excellent Gujarati food, though you need to make a payment and reserve your meal in advance. If you come late, there won't be any food for you - so do keep tab on time.

I must also add that bhaang (form of cannabis) is legal in the city and served in the form of thandai - cold flavoured milk. I strongly recommend trying it out - we had multiple glasses of bhang everyday and loved it :)

Where to stay?

Mathura does't have many amazing places to stay, but decent ones do exist. When picking a hotel, make sure you pick one which is close to the city centre so that you can easily walk around all the time without the need for transportation. It's lovely near the river and if you can find a place somewhere near Vishram Ghat, it would be quite nice every evening.

One of the most recommended places to stay is Hotel Brijwasi Royal. You can read more about them here:

Hotel Brijwasi Inn 

Some of the other hotels are:

Hotel Jyoti Residency

MMN Resort

Clarks Inn Mathura

Should women attend Holi festival alone?

This is a question I often get asked when girls are planning a trip to celebrate the festival. The straightforward answer to the question should be, why not, but the unfortunate answer is an empathetic NO. If you are alone or in a small group of girls, I would strongly advice on going at all to the festival.

I saw pretty open and blatant harassment of girls on the streets, and could do nothing about it - it was my most helpless moment during the festivities. Men with colored faces would come on bikes, grab a woman alone (and sometimes even in a group), smear her with colors (often putting their hands inside the clothes) and run away. I saw a bunch of foreigners reduced to tears just because they happened to be planing by themselves - it was just horrible.

Such incidents don't happen all the time and certainly not to everyone, but these are not uncommon either. If you are in a group with men, it's usually not so bad. I even witnessed a white man who was harassed with locals putting their hands inside his pants to put color on him, and unfortunately he was as helpless as everyone else in that crowd.

I am not a sexist and this is purely a safety-related advice. I would want everyone to celebrate this lovely festival of colors openly, but till the mindsets of men change, I would suggest that you skip solo travel to Mathura-Vrindavan for Holi. 

Mathura beyond Holi

Of course Mathura is not just temple and Holi, and there is much more to the city. I wrote an article about it a while back and it's worth checking it out if you plan to stay for a day or so after the Holi event as well. Since you would have already seen most of the temples already, do use your time to see the town beyond the temples - there is local wrestling, food, old wooden doors and more :)

Read more: Mathura beyond the Temples

General tips

- Holi can get pretty crazy at times, so be prepared to be splashed with colors, water and even other things

- There is water and colors almost all the time all around you, so good protection is needed for camera - have a waterproof plastic covers, if possible. Use this to learn more about how to protect your photography gear.

- The clothes you wear for the day will not be useable after Holi, so wear something not so useful.
- There is also a possibility that your clothes might just get torn off on the streets, so be prepared.

- Women need to extremely careful during Holi here. I do not want to warn them against coming, but they are often targets for the young local guys and many may not like it. Molestation in the guise of Holi is not uncommon.
- Wear a cap, this can potentially save your hair as people usually do not take off your head-gear
Carry a small dry-bag to keep the money, phone and other essentials 

- Wear a cap on head to save your hair - most likely no one will take it off to color your hair

- And finally, have at least a glass of Bhang and don’t just be a spectator with your camera. Holi is best enjoyed by not just getting colored, but by coloring others as well.

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I celebrated the Holi with my friend Mayank and did a photo-walk to all these destinations. Mayank is not only an excellent photographer (he takes pictures for Natgeo, Lonely Planet and so on), but also a really nice and fun guy. It was not just Holi, we explored so much more in and around Mathura, especially the street-food and the Akhara across the river.